Siem Reap

Siem Reap (eller Siem Riep eller Siemréab) er en by med rundt 140 000 innbyggere (2005) i det nordvestlige Kambodsja. Byen er mest kjent for den nærliggende ruinbyen Angkor som står for byens fremste næring,...

Siem Reap (eller Siem Riep eller Siemréab) er en by med rundt 140 000 innbyggere (2005) i det nordvestlige Kambodsja. Byen er mest kjent for den nærliggende ruinbyen Angkor som står for byens fremste næring, nemlig turisme. En elv med samme navn som byen renner gjennom den for så å tømme seg iTonlé Sapsjøen. Siem Reap er hovedstad i provinsen med samme navn. Provinsen har 696 164 innbyggere (1998)

The name Siem Reap literally means «Siam Defeated». These days, however, the only rampaging hordes are the tourists heading to the Angkor Archaeological Park. This once quaint village has become the largest boomtown and construction site in Cambodia. It is quite laid-back and a pleasant place to stay while touring the temples. It is a nice compromise between observing Cambodian life and enjoying the amenities of modern services and entertainment, thanks to a large expatriate community. Since Siem Reap is a major tourist destination, prices in some instances are higher than elsewhere in Cambodia. Expect to receive almost constant offers for motodop and tuk-tuk rides, along with everything else which drivers may be able to offer to you.

Get in

The airport is less than 15 minutes from the town centre by taxi ($7) or motodop ($4). If you have an advance booking in a hotel, ask the hotel for a free airport pickup (in one of their tuk-tuks).

Update Beginning 1 April 2011, travelers departing Cambodia by air will no longer need to queue to pay the airport departure tax. The US$ 25 fee has been included in ticket prices since 21 January 2011, for departures on or after 1 April. According to the Phnom Penh Post, if you purchased tickets before 21 January for an April or later departure, you’ll still need to pay the tax at the airport

There are separate terminals for international and domestic flights. International departure tax is a steep $25, or $13 for children, payable after check-in and before clearing immigration. Note that usually this must be paid in cash because the credit card facility is unreliable, so have cash with you. Domestic departure tax to Phnom Penh is $6.

By Land

Many companies, including (Phnom Penh Sorya Transport Capitol Tours, and GST Express) operate bus services to/from Siem Reap. Direct buses go to Phnom Penh ($10), Pakse ($30), Don Det in the 4000 Islands region of Laos ($27), Kampong Cham,Soung, Battambang, and Kor Kong. Advance bookings are advisable, and can also be sorted out by most travel agents and guesthouses for a $1-$2 fee. Buses generally leave between 7:00AM and 3:00PM but there is a night bus as well if you want to not spend the daytime travelling which leaves at midnight.

From Thailand, the nearest border crossings are at Aranyaprathet/Poipet, 3 hours to the north, and Hat Lek/Koh Kong on the coast. See those articles for information on how to get to and cross the border. As a result of recent road pavings, the roads from these border crossings to Siem Reap are in excellent condition. From Poipet, you can take a taxi (US$25 minimum, 2-3 hours, max 4 passengers) or an overcrowded bus (US$10, 3 hours, leaves when full, not as comfortable).

The best budget option is to catch a Thai government bus to the border at Poi Pet (don’t buy from Khao San Road), buy the Cambodian visa directly for $20, then after being stamped into the country find yourself a group of four to catch a reasonably comfortable taxi to Siem Reap ($25-30). This will get you to Siem Reap on time, in comparable comfort without funding scammers. While you are processing your papers at the border beware of extra friendly government employees who offer to help you. Some of them may try and take you by bus to a taxi stand where you will pay too much to exchange money at the «government» exchange booth. Then, they may try to make you pay up to double the going rate for taxis to Siem Reap ($10 per person, instead of 5).

Sleep

Accommodations range from sprawling air-conditioned hotels along the airport road (mostly for all-inclusive tours) and a growing number of stylish boutique hotels to locally run rooms-for-rent and a range of modest guesthouses, particularly on and around Wat Bo road.

If you arrive with a tour bus or van you will be taken to a suggested guesthouse. Usually these are not too bad and you’ll probably be too tired to argue.

If you arrive by plane, you may wish to contact a guest house or hotel in advance so they can arrange for free transportation from the airport. Otherwise just take a tuktuk ($5) or a taxi ($7) to town. If you don’t know any place to go to, the driver will usually ask your budget and then suggest a place that pays him the best commission so you might end up paying more than if you negotiated directly with the guest house or hotel.

To see

We have covered Angkor Archaeological Park in a seperate section

Eat

There are hundreds of restaurants in Siem Reap and you will have no trouble finding something which suits your tastes and budget. If you don’t want to eat out, most guesthouses have a basic restaurant attached and can quickly whip up a decent fried rice.

Pub Street is best known as a watering hole, but it has also many nice restaurants that won’t break the bank.

In town, there are entire streets catering for the traveler tastes with pizzas, hamburgers, and tasty westernised versions of Cambodian food such as Amok and ‘Khmer curry’.

The numerous Karaoke restaurants offer a real authentic experience of modern Khmer dining. Many of the most authentic Karaoke-style restaurants are hidden in the backstreets, though your moto or tuk-tuk driver will no doubt know where to take you. He will be happy to wait (or join you) if you are really out in the boonies. Try to sit far from the speakers and prepare for mozzies. There is often no English menu, but one of the staff will be happy to help you order. Try phnom pleurng, a delicious cook-it-yourself beef barbecue. Another sensational dish, which is only available at these types of restaurants, is the trei bung gancheyt – a whole fish bubbling in a tasty peanuty sauce with green veggies.

Some restuarants: See on the map

  • The Fusion Kitchen (Soria Moria), Wat Bo road (5 minutes from Pub Street),  +85563964768,  07-22. The Fusion Kitchen and Rooftop bar offer a nice range of international and local specialities. Enjoy air con and free wireless in the restaurant. Or watch the sunset with a glass of rose from the rooftop bar. Happy Hour from 17-20. Don’t miss The One dollar night every Wednesday. All drinks and food are one dollar only! 50% off food on Thursdays and Saturdays + All day happy hour. $3+.
  • Fresh at Chilli Si Dang (Fresh), East River Road, next to City River Hotel (2 minutes from Pub Street),  +85517875129, . 7am-2am. Beautiful riverside garden out of the hustle and bustle.Enjoy great high quality local and western food, play pool, relax on the balcony and use the free WI-FI with sunset views. Friday Quiz, Saturday BBQ, Sunday Roasts, Specials everyday $3+.
  • Selantra Restaurant, Wat Bo Road (5 minutes to Pub Street),  012569975, . 10AM-10PM. Everyday happy hour from 6PM to 8PM, special set menu available everyday, every Sunday every bottle of Chilean or French wine will get another bottle for free! 3$-18$.

Beware:

The story about scam busses from Bangkok to Siem Reap is well known, however the same thing can happen in the opposite direction, so be wary.

One can take a private van, taxi, minibus, or local bus to Poipet at the Thai border (upwards of 2.5 hrs). The road is new and in excellent condition. Anecdotal example: hotel offered/sold a taxi for $30 circa early 2011 (no negotiating was done). At Poipet go through Cambodian immigration, then walk across the border with your luggage, and into Thai immigration. Times for Thai immigration can be long (2+ hours), though a few opt for bribing their way to a shorter line.

On the Thai side there is a billboard advertising taxis at 1900฿ to Bangkok, and slightly more for other Thai cities. Sharing a taxi might be a good idea to bring down costs. Beyond that billboard are touts offering modern Toyota minibus service (a whole fleet was parked down the road) for 300฿/person.

One experience circa early 2011 going to Bangkok via minibus: First persons to purchase tickets & enter the minibus. Waited 15 minutes for it to fill. It took a rest stop 15 minutes later at a gas station/large convenience mart, and another similar stop a few hours after that. Depending on hotel location, people were dropped off at best – directly in front of their hotel, and at worst – in front of a Skytrain station. Everything went extremely smoothly, aside from the often apparent death wish of the driver.

Another possibility after crossing the border at Poipet is to take a tuktuk to the bus station in Aranyapratet (about 10 minutes) and find a local bus from there. Be sure to ask if there are different buses (VIP, express, etc), some might be faster than others. Buses should leave regularly. There are at least buses departing to Moh Chit Northern Bus Station in Bangkok at 1pm and 2.30pm. Due to traffic near Bangkok this trip takes between 4-6 hrs. From Moh Chit you can walk the 2.5 km to the skytrain station Moh Chit, which is south west of the bus station. Alternatively you can take a taxi into town. The trip to Sukhumvit Road takes about 40 minutes if you are willing to pay the 45 baht highway fee (up to two hours otherwise).

Source: wiki/wikitravel